Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
