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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.